Nick’s presentation at Alexandru cel Bun

This is the first time I have invited Nick and Jon to accompany me on any of my teaching gigs in other countries. I thought they would find it interesting to see what it is like here. People tell me that I am living in the poorest corner of the poorest country in Europe. That may well be, but it is one of the most beautiful areas I have ever seen – and I have been to lots of places and so am qualified to make this statement. The people are wonderful here and have made me very comfortable. I wanted my boys to see what it is that I do in Eastern Europe every year. I have been traveling to Lithuania and now to Romania for some time to bring American teaching methods to teachers and students. It is hard to imagine that this will be my ninth July in Lithuania. I wanted my boys to understand that this is not just a walk in the park to come and teach here. I wanted them to understand that I am here to bring my expertise from America to the countryside of developing countries in Eastern Europe.

I also wanted them to see how beautiful it is and how delightful the people are. I wanted them to see what it is to bring Western knowledge and ideas to a country that has not had the freedoms that we take for granted.

Nick came to school with me one day and spoke to many of the students. We were in the multi-media room. I had planned to invite my classes to listen, but soon most of the students were coming to hear an American speak about America. He was quite a hit. As he is much closer to their age than I am, it was very interesting for them to hear what it was like to grow up and go to college in America. He talked about his own life and hobbies. He talked about his job at Trader Joe's. He talked about going to school at Eastern Michigan University and how different it is at an American school.

I found it interesting to hear what my son had to say about growing up in America after seeing how people in other countries live. He was quite a hit with the girls. As we are a tall family, he was a head taller than even the tallest girls. The twelfth formers invite the boys out for an evening at a new club that opened just in time fo the holiday season. The view from the top floor club is phenomenal. There are floor to ceiling wndows on three sides and so almost the entire city is visible from up there.

Remote control

I am not a television watcher as most of you know. I have too many other things to do. When I moved to my new digs, I never turned on the television because I simply never got around to it. When the boys came back from their adventure, they came here to check out where I was. They turned on the television and it worked. It is an old television from the days of Russian goods. People here tell me that it is very possible for it to blow up at any time. This is not very encouraging. The boys were not happy that it had no remote control so they found a way to make one. I brought some knitting needles and yarn for the long winter nights which never seemed to arrive. They took one of my knitting needles to push the buttons as none of us wanted to get very near to it.

Another snowy day

Today I will go to Suceava again. I was going there much more often in the fall but I am finding that now that I live in town, I am getting to know the shops are that have what I need. The trip to Suceava is an adventure and fun in itself, but it takes a whole day to go for a ten minute stop.

This morning, though, I don't mind at all. This morning the snow was thick and perfect for snowballs. The trees are enveloped in snow. It looks like the elves were out last night and covered them all with fluffy, white frosting. This horse is wearing a blanket to keep off the chill in the air.

My 11K class is not with me today. Their eyes keep straying to the window and they ask if they can go outside to play in the snow. These kids are 17 and 18 and they want to have a snowball fight! I tell them that if they only speak in English, they can. You would think I had told them there was a pot of gold outside, they left so quickly.

Jon on a snowy afternoon

My boys love the outdoors and I thought they would be out on the mountains as much as possible while they were here. It turns out that they think I am living in Siberia. I clearly told them to bring hats and gloves and coats and boots and their snow boards. I know I said it several times. Apparently, they only heard Greece and sunny skies.

Having spent a week in Greece, the return to cold temperatures was a shock for them. It seems that they forgot their snow boards and didn't think they would really need all that snow gear. It wouldn't fit in their suitcases and, after all, they didn't need it at home and we live in snow country, so why cart it across the big pond. Of course, we have cars and trucks at home. I think not having a car and walking everywhere was a bit of a shock to them. We have spent a lot of time in the local restaurants and with hot chocolate at home, talking about all sorts of things. I actually have more stamina than they do, I think. That is certainly a big surprise for me. Hills still take it out of me, but the walking is a piece of cake anymore. I am in much better shape now than I was when I first came here. I am trying to figure out how to include serious walking in my day when I get home. Unfortunately, I live just under five miles from school which is a tad farther than I want to walk – and certainly not twice a day.

Rasnov

The village of Rasnow is first mentioned in 1331. The boyar of the region decided that the village was a perfect place to build a fortification and so the fortress was built. You can see it for miles as you approach the mountain. It is a huge white stone fortress that envelopes the top of the mountain. We were driven most of the way up it and then walked the rest of the way to the entrance. I am not sure I would have driven up this mountain in the summer. It is cold and icy today. The road is twisty and not well traveled, at least not in a vehicle. Even our driver who has a four-wheel drive vehicle, had to take a run at some of the hills. My Mustang would be completely useless in this country.

Water is supplied to this village from a well that was dug by two Turkish prisoners. They dug down into the rock for seventeen years until 1623 when they reached water at 146 meters. They had been promised their freedom when it was completed. It is doubtful that they were ever released. This well allowed the fortified city to remain closed during a siege as the gate did not need to be opened for supplies. Although I have to wonder who would want to siege this city. It would seem more logical to me to pass it by and keep going, but then I don't live in those times – thank heavens…

We walked up the icy paths. There were no handrails and the going was treacherous. This place has a magical feel to it. I can imagine the poor serfs scurrying up these steep pathways carrying huge sacks of grain from the valley below. They would have to trudge all the way up the mountain and then through the village alleyways. I think it is only uphill here. Even in the summer, I think it would have been a very hard life.

The views from here are spectacular. Having lived much of my adult life on the plains of the Midwest, I truly appreciate being as high as an eagle and surveying the landscape. Below is the current village of Rasnov, now even a bustling town and full of life.

We turn a corner to find the city gates. Apparently, we had entered through the tiny servants' entrance. These gates are guarded by numerous archers' windows which will hold off all but the foolhardy. I wouldn't want to get caught by the pointy iron spikes of the gates as they fall into place. On the other side of the gates is a small gathering area and then the sheer cliffs of the mountain. I really cannot imagine even climbing all the way to the top of this mountain to get to the village in the first place. But the idea of seiging this fortress seems completely ludicrous. How could you stand outside this fortress and even consider fighting your way in?

We climbed to the top of what was left of one of the guard towers. From here you can see forever. The Carpathians are beautiful from here. Mountain after snowy mountain rising one behind the other as far as the eye can see. Looking down on the fortress walls, it is amazing to think that someone could build this fortress here. Most of the materials would have to have been brought up from the valley far below. The road, even now with pavement, is treacherous. These donkeys are probably descendants of the first beasts of burden that toiled up and down this mountain, carrying all the materials and foodstuffs. These two appear to be well fed and happy. I think they may be the only full-time inhabitants of the fortress today.

We have walked up through the village on the icy path. It seems to go on forever, but maybe that is the cold and ice talking. I cannot imagine what it must have been like to have lived and worked here.

The Ensemble of the Evangelical Church and the Historic Center of Prejmer Village

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, this fortified church was considered to be the most powerful peasant fortification in medieval Transylvania. It was built in the early 1200s with the blessings of the Teutonic Knights after being attacked by the Turks by Saxon peasants.

This one is remarkably intact with the iron spikes still on the gates. They were serious about their safety here. See all the portals for arrows. There are so many of these fortified villages dotting the landscape that it is obvious that these early Saxons lived on the frontier border between Europe and the marauding Turks and Mongols who, according to the stories, were constantly attacking and trying to move westward. These Saxon peasants just wanted peace to live in their homes and work the land.

We also stopped to see the Konigberger fortified church that is nearby. The lives of the peasants centered around the Church which is at the center of the fortified village. With a well inside, they could hold out quite some time. Many Saxons settled in Transylvania and still remain. There were many residents here and the Church is well maintained even today. This one is a Lutheran Church. I have seen so many Romanian Orthodox churches that when I walked in, I was surprised to see the familiar arrangement of choir loft, raised pulpit and pews.

Brasov

We stopped in Brasov for the night. This is a fine Austrian city. Many of the town's buildings were built during the time when Transylvania was a part of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. The buildings on the square are very tall. Most of them were homes initially. It is hard to imagine the amount of money that must have flowed through here. We did not get into any of them but they must be very large rooms with very high ceilings, judging from the exteriors. We would have liked to have seen the inside of the Black Church, but it seems taht it is seldom open and so we were not able to.

We had no reservations and so when we left the train station we found a cab whose driver knew of a wonderful pensiune where we could stay. The owner was a Japanese man who had married a Romanian woman and later was divorced. From the stories he tells it created quite a stir when he married her. He stayed o in the town and refurbished the Samurai Pensiune. It is clean, warm and inexpensive which was all we wanted.

He gave us directions to Terasa Ceasu'Rau, a traditional restaurant down the street. It was essentially an outdoor restaurant with a small bar where we ate. Many people ate at tables outside but we had had enough cold for one day. The food was grilled outside at a huge fire pit.

The morning was clear and crisp with icy temperatures. We spent the day visiting Bran and Rasnov and then headed back to the square to enjoy the early evening before our train left. There are ski resorts here and so there were people in ski attire, carrying their equipment here and there. We had dinner at a quaint Romanian restaurant and finally walked took a taxi back to the train station to head back to Gura Humorului. The train was cold this evening, even though we were in the number five car which is the one that is closest to the heater. We had a two hour layover in a freezing train station way in the north of Romania and finally arrived home at nine in the morning. I am used to the midnight trains but I don't think the boys found it interesting at all. They were cold and uncomfortable. I am tall and it is hard to get comfortable in a full car, but they are a head taller than I am and a full car was just miserable for them.

Bran Castle in the winter

It is freezing outside on this cold winter day with wind and blowing snow. Imagine that you have been trudging through mud and snow for days along the valley floor until you come to a bend in the path. Looking up into the mountains you see the imposing outline of Bran Castle against a cold, wintry sky. The ground is already covered with six inches of packed, slippery snow and you are heading up to siege Bran Castle. You would probably have chosen a bright, sunny, summer day when at least it was warm, but you are not in charge. Today your orders are to climb the slippery, steep stone path which is covered with six inches of mud and ice to the front door of Bran Castle and then you are to storm your way into the castle. Several hundred others are pushing you from behind as you trudge up the steep hill and woe to he who trips and falls. When you finally reach the castle entrance, you find a steep set of steps leading to a narrow doorway where there is barely room for two to stand. They are very steep and there are archer holes facing you. You must run the gauntlet amidst flying arrows and boiling oil being poured on you from the ramparts. Those sluice gates look to be well used and so they must be very effective. When you reach the top of the steps, there is a heavy iron and oak door that you must beat down. The steps are narrow and slippery well-worn stone. It is hard to keepyour balance on the tiny steps in the snow, but you must push a battering ram through the narrow doorway. There is no possible way to get any momentum and so you pound at the door. The castle is warm from the fire in the royal soba. Jon has managed to get into the castle and is standing next to the well in the center of the courtyard. At least it looks like a well – it even has a rope and a bucket, but it you climb down into it, you will find a tunnel leading to escape on the next mountain in the Carpathians. Bad enough that you should have to abandon your stronghold, but at least you are spared the indignities of torture at your enemy's hands.

Christmas presents

I realize there is a need for security and that everyone has to abide by the same rules. Generally, I think that is a good plan. Unfortunately, sometimes the rules are impossible. I have received a few packages from the US since I have been here. The process of actually getting them is interesting. The post office is not always open even if it is supposed to be. I am not talking about a few minutes early, they don't seem to open the village post office at all in the afternoon. Packages from the States stop in Suceava and a tiny notice is sent out. I have 48 hours to arrive at the post office in Suceava to pick up the package. The customs officer is only there from 8 to noon. I have classes from 8 to at least noon on three days. The other two days I have classes until 11. I then have to walk down to the hitching corner and wait for a ride. Each car takes four passengers. I always seem to be the first passenger and so I must wait for three more people. Then we drive to Suceava which takes about 45 minutes on a good day. Then I have to get a cab to the post office as there is not enugh time to walk. I finally walk in to pick up my package. The customs officer is standing at the counter and tells me it is after noon and he can not give me the package. It is 12:08 when he says this. I ask him what I am supposed to do as I have to be in class and can not just take off a day so that I can come pick up a Christmas present. He adamantly refuses to give me the package. Finally, I tell him to send it back as I will not be able to retrieve it within his guidelines. I left, rather disgruntled.

A few weeks later, I ran into Bogdan whose house I had been living in the first semester. He had gone to the post office to pick up another package and they gave him my Christmas present. They charged him ten dollars for storage and this is what it looked like when it got to me…

My new digs

January brought many changes to my Romanian life. I moved to town first of all. I had been living in the village of Manastirea Humor, but it had become increasingly more difficult to get out as it got colder and winter settled in. The maxitaxi was grand at school hours, but otherwise, it was never consistent. It waited in town unti lit was full and then made the run. It was horrible to wait for an hour before it came by. In balmy weather that is not such a problem. In freezing weather, standing outside is just not fun. When I called for a taxi, they came about half the time. I am sure the girl taking the call was not sure what I was saying, but nevertheless, it was cold standing outside waiting to flag one down. I finally decided to move to town and so I made the move in mid-January. I now have a room in a house with a tailor and his wife. I can now walk anywhere and make plans to go out for a cup of tea if I want at a moment's notice.

The road to my new place is a bit rustic. I am not sure yet whether it is dirt or pavement. It is covered in ice and snow. I have to cross the railroad tracks to get to town. Trains come through rather often. It is an interesting sound as they are electric. I hear the whistle from the station at the other end of town and soon I can feel the train appproaching. The engine is attached to a power cable above and so there is no engine sound. Only the sound of the metal wheels singing on the metal tracks. It gets louder and louder and then the ground seems to tremble. They rumble by every hour or so. It is not loud so much as it is a sound of motion. Some days I wait for the train to pass. It seems to snow a bit every day…

Good Bye Greece!!

Anafiotika

This is an interesting area near the Acropolis. In 1830 the ruler of Athens decided that he wanted the best Greek builders in the realm to build his palace. The residents of the island of Analfi were chosen and promptly moved with all of their possessions to Athens. When they realized they were not going to return to their beloved island, they recreated it in their new home in Athens. The area is very steep as it is at the base of the Acropolis hill. The houses form a little village just as they had left on the island. The steep slopes of Acropolis hill were much like the rocky island they came from. The houses are mostly white-washed with narrow paths between them. It hasn't changed very much since then. The streets are still narrow and wind about. These people built most of the major buildings in Athens today.

The village is still intact and filled with delightful little restaurants. As we ascended the steps into the village, the owners of each of the restaurants tried to usher us in. We finally settled on a pretty little one called Aneka's. It was a bit chilly so we opted to sit inside at the fireplace. Dinner was excellent and the company was great fun. It was a wonderful evening. And wonder of wonders – we ran into the Tower of the Winds on our way home. The only time I remember going downhill is after eating dinner here. It was quite steep.

This is where we decided to spend our last night in Greece. It was the perfect choice. The Acropolis gleamed above us as we meandered back to the hotel. It seems to change color every night. Tonight it was colorful. What a great time we had here.